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Eventually, you will visit Niagara Falls, if only because you must. Sadly, the Falls pour forth an ancient torrent of roadside hucksterism and the disappointing reality that even tourist attractions contain sizable zones of blight and despair. The tumbling waters themselves, a magnet for bridal couples without a sense of irony, demand a few moments of your time, providing a contest between yourself and city planners to avoid exorbitant parking fees. Before long, though, you will add to the cacophony of break lights and car horns of Highway 62, a varied row of fleabag and fairly nice motels. Twilight brings a small number of signs to life, most notably at the 3 Star, Bel-Aire, and the Moonlite Motel. For the night, however, you might best journey East toward the tiny hamlet of Clarence. Stop in the court by the same name and listen to the nighttime symphony of crickets and the occasional passing car. The price is right and the manager doesn’t mind if you show up after bedtime.

All text copyright Andrew Wood. Photos copyright Jenny Wood and Andy Wood.