Along with these sites, you're invited to visit
our new section on the Lincoln
Highway and Route 20 and
a small section
dedicated to our drive to
Cincinnati.
Route 40 cuts through the middle of Columbus - slipping into
disguises
like West Broad and East Main before resuming its original name on the
other end of town. Interstate 70 might have bypassed some of its
utility, but nothing could diminish the charm of this roadway. Jenny and
I have heard that this region offers happy hunting grounds for aging
motels. On the hourlong trip north to Columbus, we hope the stories
are true. Our first find is the Capital Motel at the
corner of Main and Brookside. It is dark and rainy as we step out of the
car - our van from previous trips has recently died. It is four in the
afternoon and few cars are in the lot. The Capital crawls around a tired
courtyard defined by small bushes on a raised plot. While a couple of
people ask Jenny for some change, I explore the architecture: blue doors
and wood paneling, tan and cream colored curtains which form heaps in the
windows. There is no thirteenth room here. The Crystal Tips ice machine
comes with the word "ice" scrawled on its surface, just in case. Inside
the office, a sign reads like some dismal poetry: "Welcome to Capital
Motel/Positive ID required/Local calls 25 cents each/Waterbed is
available/No refund, no visitors/Checkout time 11 a.m./No incoming
phone/calls after 11 p.m. until 8 a.m./management.
Further down the road, we spot a glowing neon palmtree. But it's no
motel. Appropriately, perhaps, it's a stripclub called the Mirage.
Before long, though, we spot the Bambi Motel. Concrete
deer and surveillance cameras line the entrance to this fifty year old
site. The Bambi is located on the corner of Beechwood, across from one
of those suburban waystations of teenage existence: a 7-11. The manager
steps out of the office and agrees to turn on the lights. Under the glow
of green and pink, the deer assume a surreal quality - cavorting to a
silent melody. "There was a lot more lighting than there is now, "the
manager explains, "along the roof and such." Most of the visitors here
are looking for housing in Columbus. Few appear to be touring highlights
of Disney films long past.
We pass the Silent Woman Bar before turning toward the other end of
town. Columbus is like most large cities: a strange mix of modern glass
buildings and revered statues. We zig and zag down vast avenues,
straining to get out from under the weight of looming towers. Before
long, the highway reveals the purplish horizon - and the 40
Motel. A white, ornate railing lines the second floor of this
building. The pavement of the parking lot is damp enough to catch a
reflection of the pink neon sign. Instead of "no vacancy," the sign
offers a "sorry" if there are no rooms. But, there are plenty tonight.
Birds swoop in waves of black, streaking on either side of the sign as
Jenny waits patiently for the shot to emerge. I step into the manager's
office where an old man in a watchcap stands, picking through some
crumbled bills. "Hi, how are you," the manager asks him sweetly, "you
got some money today?" Her assistant turns to me and asks my business.
Before long, he provides the most essential advice of the night: "Watch
your speed down this road - the cops, you know." Back outside, our
daughter Vienna stands in her red Santa hat, waiting for something
interesting to happen.
Further down 40, we stop at the New Rome Motel. White,
almost polished rocks border the brick facade. Yellow doorsteps outside
of each room mimic the color of the diagonal lines in the lot. A
constant wind rattles against incomplete sections of a roof next store.
A sign on the glass inside the manager's office says, "Guests not allowed
more than 30 days." Somebody sits in a car, waiting by the Ameritech
phonebooth. Before long, she slips back onto the road and into the darkness.
On the way back from New Rome, we pass a Columbus fire station, complete
with a shiny, plastic dalmatian in front. On South High, we visit the
E-Z Sleep motel where the streetlights glow yellow. The
building sits next to the Ra-Lite neon sign company which has been in
business since 1925. In the motel lobby, we are warned about the
closed-circuit TV which will take our picture in case we decide to hold
the place up. As cars race by and a train sounds its horn, the buzzing
sign says it all.
We cruise the 270 bypass to reach Harrisburg Pike and the Buckeye
Motel with its brown and white striped awnings. A tired looking
manager observes our activities through a closed window. It's at this
point that I notice that every motel office we've visited in Columbus has
been locked, requiring guests to be "buzzed in." After another hour of
searching, it's time to go home.
We find our way back to route 33 - the road which leads to Athens. At a
McDonalds along the way, someone tells Jenny about a motel in Lancaster
which we might like - so we take a brief detour. The Lancaster
Motel on South Columbus glows in strips of pink and green. A
windsock hanging from the office rustles in the breeze as points of rain
slap my skin. For some reason, pieces of bread are strewn along the
grass where Jenny sets up her shot. The sign rocks back and forth as we
wait for a car to streak past. It isn't long before the manager comes
out. We might be causing trouble. She states with some pride, "We get
all kind here, some good and some bad - anyone tries to give us trouble
though and we kick 'em out." I tell her about our travels and she
listens with bemused interest. "Well, if taking pictures of other peoples'
motels makes you happy . . . of course, where you want to go is
Las Vegas. The Flamingo, the Thunderbird, the Four Queens - I took a
picture of the Thunderbird once at one in the morning without a flash.
It was so bright - and so purple." Some guy steps out of Room 14 and
asks Jenny what we're doing. She talks about the motels we've visited in
Columbus and he attempts to remember where he'd seen them. Jenny says,
"you know, by the Silent Woman?"
"Oh yeah, I know the Silent Woman," he replies. Inside the car, Vienna
is fast asleep. We'll be home before midnight.
Return to the lobby.
We begin in Athens, OH - our home for four years until we moved to California.
Just north of town, on Columbus road, is the
Sunset Motel. Surrounded by
forest covered hills, we are standing on
the roadside. The name of the motel is
formed by rocks bounded with redwood. As
twilight falls, crickets chirp and cars rumble by.
The occupied rooms glow green through drawn blinds.
In front of the office is an empty birdbath topped
with two concrete girls sharing an umbrella. We
introduce ourselves to Brenda, the manager. She
welcomes the opportunity to talk with us about her
motel and its history. The Sunset has existed in
many incarnations, dating back to the late 19th
century when it was a five bedroom lodging house.
Brenda points out a framed collection of
photographs, each depicting a different state
licence plate. "We get 'em from all around," she
says. Our daughter, Vienna, peers beyond the
office to the darkened living room, thinking
she's seen a cat. "That's ceramic honey," the
manager explains, "the real one's floating around
here somewhere." The smell of vegetable soup
wafts through the air. We tell Brenda about our
planned travels. "My heart's desire is
to go to Colorado," she says. "I've been
saving up and next year, I'm gonna take a week off."
Last update: April 6, 1999. All photographs copyright © Jenny
Wood. Text copyright © Andy Wood.